Polly and I and our son, Tom, enjoyed breakfast this morning
at Muer Kitchens, the cutesy little eatery next door to the New York in Harbor
Springs.
Along with our second cup of coffee, we had the pleasure of
chatting with Susie Muer, the proprietor. A truly delightful young lady, she is
the scion of the famous Detroit Muer family which operated the fabled Joe
Muer’s Seafood Restaurant on Gratiot Avenue
She shared with us the news that Muer Kitchens will soon be
serving dinners as well as breakfast and lunch. We shared with her the fact
that Polly and I were among the guests at the old Joe Muer’s the
night Joe closed up after seventy years of family operation.
How well we remember the many, many Friday nights when every
Catholic in town could be found crowded around the bar at Muer’s, lubricating
our palates in anticipation of the whitefish, lobster, perch, or whatever else
had come ashore that morning.
Getting a drink at the bar was always a challenge on a
Friday night. One had to exchanger elbow jabs with the likes of Vince Brennan,
Jack Kelley, Jerry Cavanaugh, Dick Maher, Jim Ryan, Larry Fitzgerald and yours
truly.
Those were the days of the so-called Irish Mafia, better
known as the Detroit Murphia, when Red O’Neal could muster an army of Catholic school
boys to hand out leaflets at polling places all over the city.
The Muer name reached a pinnacle of expansion when Joe’s
younger brother, Chuck was in his prime. Chuck had the dream that the Muer name
and tradition of hospitality would prosper in places other than Gratiot Avenue.
And he succeeded, not only in suburban Wayne and Oakland
Counties, but in such exotic venues as St. Armands Circle in far away Sarasota.
Popular restaurants from Grand Rapids to Palm Beach, like Charley’s Crab,
Meriwethers, Big Fish and Blue Water Inn attested to the skill and savvy of Joe
Muer’s kid brother.
Among his most spectacular achievements was the 1978
conversion of the majestic Pittsburgh and Lake Erie Railroad Station into an
elegant restaurant he christened The Grand Concourse. An 80,000 square foot
historical landmark, built in 1901 and incorporating Victorian and Edwardian
styles, it was a major hub for transportation in the Eastern United States. In
1974, the building was listed on the national register of historic places. The
Grand Concourse remains a tribute to Chuck Muer’s vision and courage as it is,
more than four decades later, one of the finest seafood restaurants in the
United States.
On
March 12, 1993, Palm Beach restaurateur Chuck Muer and his wife Betty, both 55
— left the Bahamas on “Charley’s Crab,” a 40-foot-long boat, along with
lifelong friends George and Lynn Drummey. They traveled into the path of a
major storm and, despite a 16-day search, were never seen again.
Susan
Muer remembers how she and her six siblings struggled to cling to hope as the
Coast Guard searched for three days and friends searched until March 28. About six days into the search, Susan
recalled, “I realized my parents were gone because there was no way they could
have survived on that water. At some point, your logic takes control.’’
The
Muer family’s restaurants, were later sold and six of the seven Muer siblings
got out of the restaurant business.
The
one exception was Susan. She confesses that cooking is in her blood; she loves
the pace of serving meals and the interchange with people that makes the
restaurant business so exciting and just plain fun.
I
couldn’t help being impressed by her enthusiasm and optimism. Did she think
that her little kitchen could compete with the established and beloved New
York restaurant next door?
We’re
just forty seats, she said with a grin, and we don’t have table cloths.
And
they don’t have Susan, I thought as I told her that Polly and I would be back
on May 27th to celebrate my 87th birthday.
I may
even buy a drink for the house to celebrate her new liquor license.
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