We boarded the ship in Amsterdam on the 13th and promptly
disembarked to board a smaller sight-seeing vessel that took us around the
city. It’s a fascinating metropolis which has been a center of global commerce
for centuries.
Over the next week, we traveled up the Rhine river with
stops in such storied places as
Heidelberg, Freiburg, and Cologne. Cathedrals, castles and countryside made for
a visual experience that almost distracted me from the daily five course
dinners on board the ship.
Traveling with Judge Tom, Junior and his wife, Julie, meant
trying to keep up with a couple of social dynamos whose dance cards are always
filled.
Polly was up for the trip. The weeks before we left were
filled with doctors’ and dentists’ appointments, as she worked to find relief
from sciatic discomfort and repair of a major piece of bridgework that had
picked the wrong time to collapse.
Her Father was from Germany and her Mother was from Hungary.
She remembers that German was spoken in her home when she was a tyke. Like tiny
film clips, lingering memories of food and phrases and faces that speak to her
family’s roots were jogged back to life at every stop along the river.
I was determined to get some rest. It was a vacation that
provided some down time, as the comfortable, modern vessel smoothed its way
upstream. Bill O’Reilly’s Killing Patton was
primary on my agenda, and I managed to find the account of his assault on the
German homeland over the Rhine River at about the time our ship was in that
neighborhood.
On the night of March 22, 1945, a patrol from Patton’s Third
Army paddled wooden boats across the Rhine near a town called Nierstein. On the
other side, they found no evidence of the German army, and they reported the
fact to Patton, who instantly ordered a pontoon bridge to be constructed.
Within 24 hours, a full division of GI boots were on German soil.
George Patton was given to symbolism. He had long since
announced his intention to invade the German homeland, and promised that he
would “piss in the Rhine.”
He did precisely that on March 24th and a
photograph evidencing the event is included in Bill O’Reilly’s book. As our
ship cruised past the town of Nierstein, I took great pleasure in announcing the
significance of the location to all the passengers within earshot.
Heidelberg was a particularly intriguing stop. The short bus
ride from the dock took us through winding cobblestone streets up steep hills
to the remains of the Heidelberg Castle, a storied structure which inspired our
guide to spew out a lecture on European history that included the Roman Empire,
the Protestant Reformation, the Napoleonic Wars, and a cascading torrent of
information far too detailed and esoteric to stick in my craw.
Of special interest was the wine barrel. Built to hold the
taxes paid in wine by the people to the Lord of the castle, the Heidelberg wine
barrel is said to be the largest in the world. Nearly twenty feet tall, it
holds about 58,000 gallons of wine when full.
Interestingly, through, most of the time since 1751 when it
was built, the barrel has been empty. A good message there for tax collectors.
Polly was a stalwart sightseer on Friday when we toured
Heidelberg. Back aboard ship, we were feted by the crew at dinner. Tom and
Julie were celebrating their 38th wedding anniversary and, of
course, Polly and I were observing our 64th. At dessert time, the
lights were dimmed and a delegation of the wait staff appeared with sparkler
candles and individual cakes.
Polly, of course, wanted to acknowledge the attention with a
smile. Unfortunately, just moments before, a front tooth cap had come dislodged,
and she was hastily trying to find a way to hold the tooth in place.
Needless to say, the dentist’s office was our first stop
after deplaning in Tampa.